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Results tagged “summer” from A byte to savour

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Well, that's all folks - it seems summer has slinked over without even a whisper. We've had glimmers of hope in the last few weeks but I'm rather resigned to the fact that we've had the last of the barbecues (although last year I had one in September). This weather just seems to call for bangers and mash, toad in the hole, roast Sunday lunches and warming bowls of soup.

This soup is a perfect example of one that you could change depending on the weather. Ideally it is served at room temperature as a summer soup, but if the day is dull and you need cheering up, feel free to serve it warmed through.

The recipe comes from one of my favourite pubs, The Old Bear, sister to The Albion in Islington, which does one of the best Sunday lunches around.

Carrot soup with toasted hazelnuts and pink grapefruit
Buy the best carrots you can for this, preferably organic - they are the star of the show

Ingredients (Serves 2)


  • 500g organic carrots
  • 100g unsalted butter
  • 1 star anise
  • 5g salt
  • 1 peeled clove of garlic
  • 500ml water

Garnish

  • ½ pink grapefruit
  • 10g hazelnuts
  • 30ml groundnut oil or vegetable oil
  • 10g pitted green olives
  • 5 leaves of tarragon chopped
  • 5 leaves of coriander chopped or coriander microcress

Method


Peel the carrots. Slice them into even sized pieces. Heat a pan and add the butter and when it starts to bubble add the carrots, garlic, star anise and salt. Place a lid on the pan and allow the carrots to soften.
 
When they begin to soften, add the water and bring it up to the boil; simmer until the carrots are completely cooked.
   
Remove the star anise. Take the carrots and the liquid and place in a blender, taking care not to fill it too much. Blitz the soup until smooth. Remove from the jug and allow to cool.
   
For the garnish, warm the groundnut oil in a pan over a medium heat and toast the hazels until they go golden. Tip them out on to a plate to cool down and reserve the oil. Once the nuts are cold take a rolling pin and hit each nut once just to crush it a little bit.
Cut each olive in 8 pieces. Skin the grapefruit and remove four segments. Dice into five pieces.
    
Serve the soup at room temperature. Pour into a bowl and top with the garnishes; finish by adding the herbs and a little of the oil you kept from the hazelnuts.   

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As the saying goes, the best things in life are free - and nowhere is this more true that in the vegetable growing department.

A while ago I wrote about my tomato plants and how the first tomato had sprouted. The three plants I had on my balcony continued to grow and grow until the branches were bowing, so laden were they with fruit.

When it came to eating them, they were the sweetest, juiciest tomatoes I'd ever eaten on these shores - the skin slightly thicker from their outdoor growing, the flesh more intense and deep. I'd been given a handful of green beans my friends had grown on their allotment and a deliciously simple salad was born. To make this a standout you'd need to really source the best beans and tomatoes you could find - with so few ingredients the ones you do use must be heroes.

It would be silly to call this a recipe - merely a combination of delicious things - and as such the quantities are as haphazard as its coming together. A perfect summer accompaniment to a roast lunch or barbecue.

Tomato, shallot and green bean salad

Ingredients

  • A handful of tomatoes, halved or quartered depending on size
  • A handful of green beans
  • 2 small shallots or 1 banana, sliced into rings
  • Balsamic vinegar
  • Extra virgin olive oil


Method


Trim the beans and blanch in salted boiling water for 1-2 minutes. Refresh in iced water.

Drain and shake off the excess water before combining with the tomatoes and shallots in a bowl.

A splash of olive oil and a drizzle of good balsamic are all you will need, along with a good sprinkling of sea salt and black pepper.
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A pudding from the freezer is utterly irresistible to me and I'm sure thousands of others. A cool sorbet or a decadent, smooth ice cream are both stellar ways to end a meal in my book. I don't need fancy schmantzy, just a bowl with a scoop or two in it. Maybe some sauce if I'm lucky, maybe a few sprinkles too just to add a little texture - but sometimes even this is gilding the lily.

Frozen puddings have incredible mass appeal: how many people do you know who actually don't like ice cream? There is a nostalgic joy in ice cream, memories of childhood treats, catching the drips as they roll down the cone.

Their other spectacular talent is giving the impression they aren't filling; however much one has eaten at dinner there seems to be a shared piece of (il)logic going round that the ice cream just melts in the stomach filling in the gaps, and doesn't actually take up any more space. Always room for ice cream.

This recipe is for a granita - a slushy, icy concoction perfect for the end to a summer lunch. It's aromatic and delicious, tasting fragrantly of summer. Make sure you use very ripe nectarines to get the maximum flavour. Feel free to chop and change the fruit for anything very ripe, remembering to adjust the sweetness of the syrup to match. Using white sugar here will give you a much more vivid colour.

Nectarine granita (serves 4-6)

  • 150g caster sugar
  • 300ml water
  • 3 large, very ripe nectarines
  • 1 lemon
  • 1 lime or 1 passionfruit (optional)

Method

Cut the nectarines into eight or so pieces and remove the stones. Place in a saucepan.
Over a low-ish heat dissolve the sugar and water in another pan. When dissolved completely, turn the heat up and bring to the boil. Once boiling pour over the chopped fruit and leave to cool.

Blend the fruit and syrup mixture in a food processor or blender until smooth. Add lemon juice to taste - you need a little bit of sharpness. I used the entire lemon.

Sieve the mixture into a shallow container. Put the container in the freezer, uncovered. After half an hour use a fork to break up the ice crystals. Repeat every half an hour to an hour for 3-4 hours.

To serve, scrape the granita with a fork into a large bowl for sharing. Either scatter some passionfruit seeds over the granita or squeeze on a little lime juice and serve with lots of spoons.

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Runner beans are such a great addition to the summer kitchen. Along with their fellow green, broad and the short-seasoned bobby beans they suit all manner of dishes.

Sometimes I forget how delicious they are - we were served them as a side at dinner in a restaurant last week, just boiled with butter, salt and pepper. What a sweet, succulent treat - hardly a vegetable at all. We ordered seconds and fought over them to the last.

They are also delicious tossed with finely sliced shallots, cherry tomatoes and a splash of French dressing, or given the classic a la Grecque treatment. Their sweetness works perfectly with a Sunday roast - sliced finely and devoured with a generous splash of gravy. This food writing business is hungry work.

I love the following recipe - a simple summer dish. We had it initially with a pan-fried pork fillet, although it is delicious on some sourdough toast the next day. Feel free to add a pinch of chilli flakes if you like it spicy.

Runner bean stew with chorizo

Ingredients (Serves 2-4 as a side)

  • 150g cherry tomatoes
  • 1 medium onion
  • 1 large clove of garlic
  • 1 cooking chorizo (about 4 inches long)
  • 250g runner beans
  • 1/2pt water or stock

Method

Finely chop the onion and sauté in a splash of olive oil with the diced chorizo until soft but not coloured. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, a matter of a couple of minutes or so. Add the halved tomatoes and cook until they break down and release their juice.

Add the stock or water.

Finely slice the runner beans on the diagonal so you get nice long pieces.  Add these to the pan, season and simmer until the beans are cooked.



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I'm a bit shameless when it comes to asking for recipes. If I'm in a restaurant or a cafe or even at someone's house I will always ask for one to add to my collection. It's a decidedly small contingent these days that endeavour to keep a recipe secret. After all, as my friend Jose said when I asked him for his delicious tortilla recipe, food is for sharing.

On this last visit to Spain I had a couple of delicious soups - both classics in the Spanish repertoire. Ajo Blanco is the first, a white, smooth almond and garlic soup sometimes made with grapes. The second, the recipe I have secured for your summer party enjoyment today, is for the inimitable gazpacho. Many recipes call for vinegar, some for bread, but this is a particularly tasty and light version, perfect to start an alfresco meal. This recipe comes from tapas bar El Molinon in Valencia.

Gazpacho El Molinon 

Ingredients (serves 2)

  • 1 kg ripe tomatoes
  • 1 cucumber
  • 1 red pepper
  • ½ a Spanish onion
  • 1 clove of garlic

Method


Blend the ingredients together in a food processor or with a stick blender, adding a bit of oil and a bit of salt to taste. Once it's all processed, if it seems too thick, add a bit of water to make it more liquid.

Serve with some home-made croutons.
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tort_560.jpgA properly made tortilla is a thing of beauty. Perfect as a light lunch with friends, a simple green salad on the side and a glass of crisp white wine to wash it down. I have a bit of an omelette phobia in general - for some reason they just never turn out right. We all have our Achilles' heel, and I guess mine is this kitchen staple.
With tortilla, I tended to cheat somewhat. I just bought great slices of it from Brindisa and contented myself with these, safe in the knowledge that there was no way I could do any better at home.
And then, during a long glorious lunch there with Jose Pizarro, head chef of their three restaurants, I managed to wangle their tortilla recipe. He's one to watch too - a creative, knowledgeable chef whose Spanish cooking is some of the best I've eaten. Keep an eye out for his book, which will be out later this year.
The secret, he says, for a perfect tortilla, is in the slow cooking of the onion - its sticky sweetness rounds out the flavour of the omelette. He recommends serving this with allioli.

Potato and chorizo tortilla


Ingredients (Serves 4)

•    7 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
•    2 medium white Spanish onions, thinly sliced
•    fine salt
•    5 medium sized floury potatoes such as Maris Piper
•    6 large free-range eggs, beaten

For the chorizo mix

•    1 garlic clove, sliced
•    1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
•    1 small red pepper
•    1 small green pepper
•    125g cured spicy chorizo, diced

Method

Heat the oil in a frying pan and sauté the garlic, peppers and chorizo until the peppers have softened and the chorizo is crispy. This will take about 8 minutes. Drain off any excess oil and set aside.

Heat 6 tablespoons olive oil in a non-stick frying pan and add the onions and season with salt. Gently fry the onions for 20 minutes or so until soft and brown, but not burnt.

Peel and halve the potatoes, and then finely slice the pieces. Add the potatoes to the onions and fry for 30 minutes until they completely cooked. Remove any excess oil with a spoon. Season and set aside.

Add the chorizo mix to the potatoes.
 
While the mixture is still warm, add the beaten eggs and stir everything well.

Heat a non-stick frying pan with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and add the potato mix. Stir it for 1 minute then smooth it down, and let it fry gently for at least 10 minutes until there's a beautiful brown crust underneath.
 
Once it's cooked on the frying pan side, take a flat lid or plate and place it over the tortilla. Clamp pan and lid together and twist both over together so that the tortilla is now on the lid.

Return the pan to the heat, and slide the tortilla back into the pan. It's a bit scary to begin with, but practise makes perfect and it's very easy to get the hang of the technique.

To serve, let the tortilla cool to room temperature. Ideally, leave it for a day before cutting it into wedges.


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What on earth is going on outside at the moment? One day it's lunch in the garden, the next it's stew by the fire!

 

Although I'm sure the weather's set to change again, I've started to get in the mood for summer, picking up fresh, light stuff to brighten the kitchen, like shiny red peppers and purple aubergines. And I'm already putting together cold platters of salty cheese, Spanish ham and griddled vegetables dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

 

This is simple, pleasure food you can throw together quickly and savour slowly on a balmy summer's evening - those rare ones we seem to get. But then I guess that's all part of being British - the picnic eaten under a tree in the rain, barbecues cooked beneath an umbrella.

 

When it's good, though, it's great. Those evenings when the sun takes forever to disappear over the horizon and the smell of charcoal drifts on the still-warm air as the muted sounds of the neighbours enjoying their own al fresco experience float over the fence.

 

Such great times... So sod the cold, cook some summer food right now, even if you have to eat it indoors!

 

Artichoke, fontina and parma ham turn-over


Ingredients (Serves 4)

 

  • 100g fontina or other melting cheese like taleggio
  • 5 or 6 slices of Parma ham
  • a tin of artichokes hearts or a packet of griddled ones
  • 1 packet ready rolled puff pastry
  • a few thyme leaves
  • 1 egg, beaten

Method


Pre-heat oven to 225°C. Lay pastry out on an oiled baking sheet. Drain artichokes and slice into quarters. Drape Parma ham over half the pastry, leaving a border of about a centimetre.

 

Scatter over artichokes and then slice cheese and spread it out over the top.

 

Scatter over thyme leaves, season with pepper only and then fold pastry over to form a parcel. It will probably be a bit lopsided. Brush the whole thing with beaten egg and bake in the oven for ten minutes or so until golden.

 

A green salad dressed with a punchy vinaigrette would make a great addition.

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